Serving Royal Palm Beach, Wellington, Loxahatchee Groves and The Acreage
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Open wall studs with new PEX supply lines during a repipe

Repiping in Royal Palm Beach, FL

Repiping in Royal Palm Beach means replacing the supply lines inside your house, the pipes that carry pressurized water to every tap, tub, toilet and appliance. Our 24/7 line is staffed around the clock, but repiping is planned work, so a normal weekday call works fine.

The first visit covers what pipe you have now, how it is failing and what your walls will need. You get a clear price before work starts, and the schedule is built around how long your household can go without water.

  • Galvanized replacement
  • Polybutylene replacement
  • PEX or copper
  • Permit guidance
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Rusty water, repeated pinhole leaks or falling pressure?

These three symptoms often point to the same cause: supply pipe that is wearing out from the inside. A single fix may hold for a while, but when the pattern repeats, the lasting answer is repiping. That means replacing the old lines with new PEX or copper in a planned job.

What a whole-house repipe replaces

A repipe swaps the hot and cold supply lines that run from your main shutoff valve to each fixture. It usually includes new shutoff valves under sinks and toilets, and often new lines to the water heater. Drain and sewer pipes are a different system and are judged separately.

Most homeowners reach this decision after the second or third leak in the same house. One pinhole is a repair. A string of them in different rooms means the pipe itself has aged out, and every patch just moves the pressure to the next weak spot.

Signs your supply pipes are near the end

Brown or orange water

Rust from the inside of old steel pipe shows up when you first open a tap after the water has sat. If it clears in a minute or so, the pipe is shedding scale.

Pressure that fades

Good pressure at the meter but weak flow at the shower points to a narrowed pipe. Mineral and rust buildup can shrink the opening to a fraction of its original size.

Leaks in new places

A repair at one joint, then a drip two feet away a month later. That pattern is the pipe failing along its length, not at one bad fitting.

Stains and green crust

Blue-green crust at copper joints, or flaking rust at steel fittings, shows the metal is corroding where you can see it. It is usually worse where you cannot.

Water bill creeping up

A hidden leak inside a wall adds to the bill before it stains anything. Test the meter first, and if it moves with everything off, start with leak detection.

Pipe material you cannot name

If you bought the house and no one knows what is behind the drywall, a quick look at the lines near the water heater and main valve usually answers it. We can do that on the first visit.

Tier B topic

Galvanized pipe replacement

Galvanized pipe is steel with a zinc coating, common in older houses. The zinc wears off over the years, and then the steel rusts from the inside out. The pipe can look fine on the outside while the bore closes up like a clogged artery.

Patching a galvanized line rarely fixes the real problem, because the next joint is in the same condition as the one that failed. Where new copper or PEX meets old steel, we use a dielectric fitting so the two metals do not corrode each other at the connection.

If a galvanized section bursts before your repipe is scheduled, close the main valve and call the line. We can make a safe repair or stop-gap, and then plan the full replacement properly. For an active break, burst pipe repair is the faster route.

Polybutylene: why some homes were repiped

Polybutylene is a gray, sometimes blue or black, flexible plastic pipe used in many U.S. homes from the late 1970s into the mid 1990s. It was cheap and fast to install. It also earned a bad reputation, and a large class-action settlement followed.

The usual complaint is failure at the fittings, often with little warning, and sometimes the pipe wall itself. Many owners replace it before a leak happens, and some insurers ask about it when you apply for coverage, so check with yours. We cannot tell you how many local homes have it, but we can identify it in minutes by looking at the pipe near your water heater and main shutoff.

PEX or copper: the honest trade-offs

Both materials work for a whole-house repipe, and neither is perfect. The better pick depends on your house, your water and your budget, so we explain the choice on the call instead of pushing one.

PEX and copper for a whole-house repipe
FactorPEXCopper
InstallationFlexible tubing, fewer cuts into wallsRigid, needs more joints and more access
JointsCrimp or expansion fittings, no flameSoldered joints, done by a skilled hand
Material costUsually lowerUsually higher, and prices swing
SunlightCannot sit in sun, degrades with UVUnaffected
Noise and flowQuiet, slight bend lossesCan ring or knock if loosely strapped
Water chemistryNot affected by corrosionCan pit with some water conditions
Repair laterSimple with the right fittingsStraightforward for a plumber
Fire and heatMelts in a fireDoes not burn

In practice, PEX wins on speed and wall damage, and copper wins on long track record and heat tolerance. If you drink well water or have unusual water, ask for a test before choosing copper.

What a repipe actually involves

  1. 1

    Pipe survey and plan

    We trace your lines, check the main valve, pressure and water heater connections, and decide which walls, ceilings or closets we need to open. You get the scope and a clear price in writing before anything is cut.

  2. 2

    Permit and water schedule

    We confirm the permit path with the building department. Water is not off for the whole job. The work is planned in phases, so ask on the call how your house would be split up.

  3. 3

    New lines and connections

    We run new supply lines to each fixture, install new shutoffs, and reconnect the water heater, the washer box and the ice maker line. Old pipe is cut out or abandoned in place, depending on the wall.

  4. 4

    Pressure test, inspection, patch

    The system is pressure tested before walls are closed, and inspected where a permit requires it. Then we patch the access holes in drywall. Ask what level of finish is included, since paint matching is a separate question.

Repair, partial repipe or full repipe

Repair or partial repipe fits when

  • Only one run, such as a single bathroom line, is failing
  • The rest of the pipe tests sound and looks clean inside
  • You are selling soon and need a limited fix
  • You want to spread the cost across two projects

Full repipe fits when

  • Leaks keep appearing in different rooms
  • Water is discolored or pressure has dropped at several fixtures
  • You have polybutylene or heavily corroded galvanized steel
  • You are already opening walls for a remodel

Permits and checking your plumber

Call the Village building department at (561) 790-5128 before the work starts. The Village states that most work done in Royal Palm Beach requires a building permit, and the Florida Building Code, Plumbing, 8th Edition (2023) is the edition in effect. Owner-builder permits need a notarized affidavit, so a plumber who skips this step is worth questioning.

Check any contractor's license at MyFloridaLicense.com using the Verify a License tool, by name, business or number. If your home sits in Wellington instead, the permit office is the Wellington building division, which lists its own plumbing permit packet.

What changes the price of a repipe

Every house is different, so we price the job after we see it.

Call (561) 448-8545

Size and layout

Square footage and bathroom count matter. So does whether lines run through an attic, a slab or a second story, since each changes the pipe and labor.

Pipe material

PEX and copper are priced differently, and copper prices move with the metal market.

Wall and ceiling access

More drywall to open and patch means more labor, and finished tile or cabinetry adds care.

Fixture count and shutoffs

New shutoff valves, a new main valve or a pressure regulator add parts and time.

Permit and inspection

Permit fees and inspection steps are set by the building department, and we include them in the plan.

Insurance may cover water damage from a sudden leak, but it rarely pays to replace pipe that is simply old. Ask your carrier first, then call (561) 448-8545 for a clear price before work starts.

Thinking about a repipe?

Call and describe your pipe, your leaks and your timeline. We will tell you what to check and what a visit covers.

Call (561) 448-8545

What to expect after a repipe in Royal Palm Beach

Know your water provider

Palm Beach County Water Utilities serves most of the Village, but addresses south of Southern Blvd are on Wellington Utilities. Tell us which one you use, since it affects who to call about the meter and main.

Flush and clean the aerators

PBCWUD reports no lead service lines found in its service area, and lead at the tap usually comes from household plumbing. After a repipe, run the taps and clean the aerators to clear debris, then test if you have concerns.

Related planned plumbing work

A repipe is a good time to handle other planned work in the same walls. If a water heater swap or new fixtures are on your list, ask about plumbing installation so one crew handles both. For one broken underground line, water line repair is usually enough.

Sources and standards

A repipe is built to the Florida Building Code, Plumbing, 8th Edition (2023) and the Village of Royal Palm Beach states that most work in the Village requires a permit, so call (561) 790-5128 before starting. Check any contractor's license at MyFloridaLicense.com, the state's license lookup.

FAQs

Royal Palm Beach repiping questions

Why is my water rusty or brown, and does it mean I need new pipes?

Brown water that clears after a minute often means old steel pipe is shedding rust. If it happens at several taps and comes with falling pressure, the supply lines are likely failing. A visit confirms the pipe type and whether a repipe is the right fix.

How do I know if my house needs a repipe?

Repeated leaks in different spots, discolored water and low pressure at several fixtures are the main signs. Pipe material matters too, since galvanized steel and polybutylene both have known problems. A visit lets us look at the pipe instead of guessing.

How long will my water be off during a repipe?

We plan the work in phases, so water is usually restored between stages. The exact schedule depends on your layout, so ask on the call and we will describe how your house would be divided.

Do I need a permit to repipe my house?

Most plumbing work in the Village needs a permit. Call the Village building department at (561) 790-5128 to confirm, and we handle the permit steps for the work we do.

Will you cut into my walls?

Usually yes, but only where needed. We plan access holes in closets, behind cabinets and in attics where possible, then patch the drywall. Ask what finish is included.

Is PEX better than copper?

Not always. PEX is quicker to install and quieter, and copper has a longer track record and handles heat. We explain which one suits your house before you decide.

Do you replace drain lines too?

This service covers water supply lines. If you suspect a broken or old drain, we can look at it with a camera, and the sewer inspection page explains that process.

Question not answered here? Call the 24/7 line at (561) 448-8545 and talk to a plumber.

Plan your repipe with a call

Describe your pipes and your timeline and we will outline the next step.

Call (561) 448-8545
Service area

Royal Palm Beach and the nearby towns we cover

One 24/7 line covers Royal Palm Beach, Wellington, Loxahatchee Groves, Loxahatchee and The Acreage.

Call 24/7 emergency line(561) 448-8545